Missing the mountains? Once autumn brings colder temperatures to the High Sierra, those yearning for happy trails could stick to the lowlands or wait until spring to lace up their boots. Consider a third option, though: a medium-Sierra destination like Yosemite’s Hetch Hetchy.
Hetch Hetchy’s name and reservoir evoke thoughts of the century-old struggle over the dam that floods this valley, a great loss for John Muir and environmentalists. Decades earlier, Paiute and Miwok lost more here when European Americans evicted them from their treasured home of millennia. The area’s name derives from their word “hatchhatchie” which means “edible grasses.”
Hikers today, though, might rightly regard Hetch Hetchy as an overlooked gem. The area attracts just a fraction of Yosemite’s visitors despite prime hiking options for day trips and backpacking. At 3,900 feet, Hetch Hetchy remains open nearly year-round, and enjoys fine fall days as its leaves turn golden brown. Consider these options for an autumn outing.
Wapama Falls
A moderate hike, five miles round trip, leads to this powerful waterfall named by the Miwok. Park in a lot beside O’Shaughnessy Dam. Cross the dam and walk through the stone tunnel beyond it. Continue east along the reservoir’s shoreline over rolling climbs and drops.
To some observers, Hetch Hetchy Valley bears an uncanny resemblance to its more popular neighbor Yosemite Valley. With a little imagination, landmarks like Hetch Hetchy Dome, Wapama Falls and Kolana Rock seem to correspond with El Capitan, Yosemite Falls and Sentinel Dome. See for yourself as you hike north of the reservoir.
Early-season hikers will first see Tueeulala Falls. Next follows Wapama Falls which tumbles more than 1,000 feet and flows almost year-round. The out-and-back hike takes three or four hours.
A short but challenging hike leads to Poopenaut Valley. Hikers willing to descend and then climb a steep trail can visit Tuolumne River to cool their feet, swim or fish.
Find the signed trailhead on Hetch Hetchy Road, four miles past the entrance station. A dirt pullout on the east side of the road offers parking and bear-proof food lockers.
The out-and-back hike drops and then climbs about 1,230 feet over 2.4 miles round trip, taking most people around two hours. Prepare for the steep grade because those who don’t will not enjoy themselves. Wear good hiking shoes and use trekking poles. Watch out for poison oak.
The trail delivers hikers to the grassy floor of a river-carved valley about two miles downstream from O’Shaughnessy Dam. The Tuolumne flows through a granite gorge.
Spring visitors will spot wildflowers, including lupin, buttercups and monkey flowers. Summer hikers will experience warm temperatures that will encourage a dip in the river. Those who trek in fall will most likely get the valley all to themselves.
If you’re looking for a backpacking fix before winter, Lake Vernon may fit the bill. A 25-mile loop leads along the north shore of Hetch Hetchy Reservoir and through Tiltill Valley on the way to a picturesque lake. Most will enjoy this best as a three-day trip.
Walk across O’Shaughnessy Dam and through the tunnel. Continue east along the shoreline, passing Tueeulala Falls and Wapama Falls. Later you’ll reach Rancheria Falls. The campground here is a good place to spend a night.
The next leg climbs to lush Tiltill Valley, crossing Tiltill Creek. Then the trail climbs over the flank of Mount Gibson on the way to Lake Vernon, another good overnight spot. The lake’s outlet forms Falls Creek, which flows down a chute of granite on its way to Wapama Falls.
From the lake, hike southwest over some modest ups and downs. At Beehive Meadow, there’s a spring and a trail junction; stay left. You’ll pass through an area of burned forest and pass a small pond between the next junction; stay left again. Descend on switchbacks over old Lake Eleanor Road. This segment will provide the best views (and pictures) of Hetch Hetchy Reservoir and Kolana Rock. Turn right to return through the tunnel and across the dam.
While backpackers could hike this loop in either direction, most prefer a counterclockwise route which includes a steep descent at the trip’s end, instead of a steep climb at its start.
Overnight backcountry trips require wilderness permits; get yours at recreation.gov or the Hetch Hetchy entrance station. Bear cans are required and needed for food storage. Hetch Hetchy has a backpackers campground where wilderness permit holders can spend one night before and after their trips.
